‘I am not African because I was born in Africa but because Africa was born in me’ – Kwame Nkrumah

Black is King is so much more than a coming-of-age story. Adapted from The Lion King, it is a story of loss and feeling disconnected. It is a story that tells of losing your identity through generations of slavery and dehumanisation: “When it’s all said and done, I don’t even know my own native tongue”; “And if I can’t speak myself, I can’t think myself. And if I can’t think myself, I can’t be myself. And if I can’t be myself, I will never know me. So Uncle Sam, tell me this: If I will never know me, how can you?”

Written and performed by Nigerian Joshua Abah, Black is King is, with as simple a description as I can manage, about being forced to follow a path that is not your own. And in this way, it illustrates Beyonce’s desire to ‘contextualise her heritage’, says Carina Ray, associate professor of African and African American studies at Brandeis University, Waltham/Boston, Massachusetts. Further, it “encourages collective rediscovery with our past and who we have always been,” says Hannah Beachler, Oscar-winning production designer of Black Panther. Ray continues: “Black Is King is about mourning what we were in order to celebrate what we are.” True enough, Beyoncé does, indeed, celebrate African artists, musicians, singers and creatives from the continent and the diaspora.

“With this visual album, I wanted to present elements of Black history and African tradition, with a modern twist and a universal message, and what it truly means to find your self-identity and build a legacy” Beyoncé

It is, therefore, of no surprise that aesthetics form an important part of illustrating this narrative. The visual impact of the film is rich and dazzling. Beyoncé’s use of fashion to demonstrate her appreciation of various African cultures and the African diaspora is clear, fashion historian and curator Darnell-Jamal Lisby tells TIME. The film serves as a doorway for those who may not know how much diversity the African continent is home to, she says.

Below is a shortlist of some of the imagery and symbolism you can find in the film.

Lipombo-inspired braided crown

The practice of head elongation favoured by Congo’s Mangbetu people inspires the braided crown created by hairstylist Neal Farinah for the track Brown skin girl. The elongation was considered a status symbol and a representation of royalty.

Headdresses and wraps

Magnificent headdresses are worn in many African countries. In Black is King, Beyoncé pays tribute to this tradition with various stunning headdresses and wraps. Particularly evident are the gele associated with Yoruba culture in Nigeria and the duku of Ghana. Worn all over the continent, every country and culture has their own form of headdress. The consistency with which they appear in film is intended to be a unifying symbol.

Dogon mask and the colour white

“When fully activated, masks become ‘spirits made tangible’.” Says Cjika Okeke-Agula, West Africa masquerade and art historian. Dogon masks make an appearance in Find your way. The Dogon people from Mali use myriad masks, the most popular being kanaga. This is used during the dama ritual that marks the end of the mourning period and the passage of the soul.

In the funeral scene, pallbearers walk through an entirely white church. Everything is white, including the performers. The colour white in Africa and many other countries is associated with death – it signifies the absence of colour, which is more often used for celebration – and the passing on the elder’s soul into the afterlife. This contrasts with western cultures, where the colour is often used for weddings.

Nguni Cowhide

Animal prints feature heavily in Black is King and are an ode to southern and South African cultures, particularly the Xhosa and Zulu use of Nguni cowhide. Their cultural use of the hide is quite different. Zulus use Nguni cowhide in their ceremonial shields. King Shaka Zulu specifically bred pure white cowhides in his royal herd ‘the inyonikayiphumuli for his personal guard, making them easily identifiable during battle from other soldiers who wore the patterned white and black hide. The Xhosa use Nguni in their cleansing ceremonies; cattle are also a symbol of wealth and form an important part of a bride’s lobo or dowry. But they are deeply symbolic too. In the Setswana-speaking parts of Africa they are called “God with the wet nose.” In the Sepedi belief system, cows are a bridge between the physical and the spiritual world.

Ndebele house painting

This traditional form of house painting is thought by scholars to have originated in the beadwork of the Ndebele people of South Africa. The centuries-old beadwork evolved into painting during the Dutch colonialism of South Africa. The patterns and designs are thought to have personal significance for the artists centring around identity, marital status, and emotion.

West African masquerades

South African singer Busisiswa wears a dress in My power that is inspired by the masquerades of Nigeria, Benin, Burkina Faso and central Africa. In these countries, masks and full-body costumes are used in ceremonies to celebrate everything from harvest to rite-of-passage.

There are many more African symbols and stories weaving their way through this stunning film. Let us know which ones we’ve missed here.

Read more about why everyone doesn’t love the film here: Beyonce’s Black is King is controversial. Why? 

Sources:
https://time.com/5875425/black-is-king-fashion/
https://variety.com/lists/beyonce-black-is-king-african-culture-references/dogon-masks/
https://www.latimes.com/entertainment-arts/story/2020-08-08/black-is-king-beyonce-my-power-design
https://www.esquire.com/entertainment/music/a33564645/beyonce-black-is-king-symbolism-meaning-analysis-masculinity/
https://www.zulucow.co.uk/importance-nguni-cattle-lives-zulus-now/
https://mg.co.za/article/2016-04-07-cows-the-sacred-and-the-profane/
https://www.culturesofwestafrica.com/west-african-mask/