A quick guide to West African print fabrics
Do you know your ankara from your adinkra or your kente?
Adinkra, Ghana
This striking African print fabric is associated predominantly with the Asante people. Adinkra cloths are decorated with adinkra symbols, symbols that convey traditional wisdom on life and much more besides, and are worn at important occasions such as at funerals. The word adinkra can be traced to the word ‘dinkra’ and means ‘farewell’ in the Twi language of the Akan ethnic group.
Adire, Nigeria
Adire is an important local craft associated with Abeokuta and Ibadan – the former is considered the capital of adire in Nigeria. Adire is an indigo-dyed cloth that involves using a range of resist-dyeing techniques; the dye used is called elu, from the elu leaf that is planted in the Saki area of Oyo state. The most important techniques used are Onikan, Alabere and Eleko. Textile production of this African print fabric is said to be one inherited by birth, ie one is born into an adire-making family, with the techniques passed down the generations. In fact, for a long time, if you were not from an ‘adire-making family’ you were not allowed to participate in adire production. Adire is used to make buba gowns as well as casual dresses and trousers, although today it is difficult to find good-quality adire.
Ankara Fabrics, Nigeria
African wax print fabrics, or ankara (also known as kitenge in East Africa), are composed of pure cotton in a method of production known a batik, a wax-resist dyeing process. The traditional batik methods are still practised in West African countries today, albeit in small workshops and without the use of machinery. The quality of the ankara is dependent largely on the type of cotton fabric used and the manufacturing process. The colours and design will be the same on both sides of the ankara. Typically, ankara is sold in 12-yard lengths as a ‘full piece’ or 6-yard lengths as ‘half piece’. The colours are usually a reflection of customer preference. Ubiquitous in West Africa, ankara is considered a glamorous African print fabric, and it is worn at celebratory or social events. However, ankara is extremely versatile, and it is also used to make accessories and soft furnishings.
Ankara has long been used as a form of non-verbal communication in African cultures, particularly those of West Africa. The colours and symbols can point to a specific tribe or social status of the person wearing the ankara. Sometimes, the wax prints represent personalities. Often the wearer will create their own meaning and pass on this information to the manufacturer who will elevate the ankara with a name. For example, the Nigerian fabric ‘Record Disc’ is so named because it resembles an old vinyl record. The Ghanaian fabric ‘Nsu Bura’, meaning ‘water well’, shows the ripple effect of water and is a metaphor for the ability of one’s actions to have an impact on others. The range of African printed fabric designs includes flowers, birds, and geometric shapes. Celebrities with a passion for ankara fashion include actress Lupita Nyong’o, writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and grammy award-winning singer Beyoncé.
Aso Oke Fabric, Nigeria
The Aso oke, or ‘top cloth’, signifies a cloth of ‘high status’ amongst the Yoruba of Nigeria. It is worn mainly at formal occasions such as weddings, chieftaincy coronations and funerals. Aso oke fabric is a very thick, cotton, hand-woven fabric and is used to make men’s wide-sleeved robes (agbada) and men’s hats (fila), as well as tops for women (buba), wraparounds (iro), headwear (gele) and shoulder sash (iborun). Aso oke is often regarded as a family heirloom and passed down the generations. This African print fabric is not to be confused with aso oke, aso ebi is simply a uniform style that is typically worn in Nigeria and other West African cultures as a form of solidarity at ceremonies such as weddings.
Bogolan Fabric, Mali
A symbol of Malian cultural identity, bogolan, meaning ‘mud cloth’, is a cotton African print fabric traditionally dyed with fermented mud. Bogolan fabric is usually worn in times of transition, such as births, marriages and deaths.
Country Cloth, Sierra Leone and Liberia
This beautiful cotton, heavy fabric is made by the weavers of the Mende tribe. The cotton is handspun into thread, dyed and woven into strips on a tripod loom. Country Cloth is also used to make clothes and accessories such as handbags.
Gele (Yoruba)/ ichafu (Igbo) – Nigeria
Although gele (headwrap), strictly speaking, should fall under our aso oke section, it deserves a category of its own. This large rectangular cloth is made of extremely thick fabric, such as aso oke, brocade or damask. Geles, regal in aesthetic, come in a dizzying array of colours and patterns, and tying the gele is a hard earned skill that comes with years of practice and the patience of Job. That said, the results are nearly always spectacular.
Kente Cloth, Nwentoma, Kete
Kente cloth the traditional cloth of Ghana, worn by most Ghanaian tribes. Kente is an African print fabric that varies in complexity: the ahwepan , for example, is a simple design that uses a plain weave, whereas the adweneasa is very intricate with weft-based patterns woven into every block of the plain weave. There are two dominant types of kente cloth: Ewe kente and Ashanti kente. The former hails from the Anlo Ewe area, and the latter, from the Ashanti region. Cotton is the material used for Ewe kente, whereas the Ashanti tradition is of using silk and rayon. The overall aesthetic of the two types is also markedly different: Ewe kente is more symmetrical in design than Ashanti kente and the narrative of Ewe kente is more aligned to human experience rather than qualities of leadership, as is the case with Ashanti Kente. Kente comes in a range of colours, each colour with its own symbolic meaning.
Ndop Cloth (‘Bamenda Gown’)
From the Western/north-western region of Cameroon hails this striking traditional dress, adorned with beautiful colours and designs. There are specific patterns on the fabric such as the gong, a musical instrument as well as a symbol of peace, and the star, a nod to the divine. The Bamum version features red and blue as its dominant colours and is traditionally worn by high-ranking political and tribal leaders. Nowadays, ndop is worn by ordinary Cameroonians, particularly at ceremonies, and is seen as a symbol of cultural identity among the Cameroonians.
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To buy these beautiful African fabrics online, try these recommendations:
Dovetailed: In addition to wax print fabrics, the company also sells sewing patterns.
The African Fabric Shop: Stocks a wide, ever-changing selection of African fabrics, all made in Africa
https://www.africanfabric.co.uk/fabrics-textiles/african-fabrics
Majestic London: Stocks a beautiful selection of lace and other fabrics
https://majesticlondon.com/collections/exclusive-french-lace
Sources
For images: University of Wisconsin-Madison Libraries
