Umoja, Kenya
Umoja is an all-female village, some 325km north of Nairobi, Kenya. It is an important safe haven for Kenyan women that exist in a particularly violent society in East Africa. But it is also an example of African culture at its most radical – and inspiring.
Umoja was established in 1990 as a refuge for survivors of sexual violence. Today it is a place for Kenyan women who are escaping any number of horrors. Child marriage, female genital mutilation (FGM) and domestic violence are all cultural norms among the Samburu – a tribe that offers its women precious little freedoms. But many of these brave Kenyan women are also victims of rape – on the part of British soldiers.
Rebecca Lolosoli, Umoja Village Chairwoman (or matriarch), was married at the age 18. After speaking up for the rights of Kenyan women in her local village she was severely beaten. She received no support from her husband. And so, whilst recovering in hospital, she decided upon a profound new course.
Despite serious opposition from local tribesman – including physical attacks – Umoja has endured. And this matriarchy now supports 47 women and over 200 children. This might be somewhat of a surprise, given that there are no men in town. But Umoja women are allowed boyfriends – albeit in other villages.
Evidence of Umoja’s success can be found in the fact that older residents now educate those in neighbouring villages on issues such as FGM. But it can also be seen in the younger women’s attitudes to marriage. Many are content with having a boyfriend or raising a child but now seek no formal partnership – content with their newfound independence.
One tradition that firmly remains is the importance of children. Women in Samburu County are regarded as nothing if they don’t have kids. Yet for those in Umoja, their focus is less on merely having children but rather in creating better lives for them.
Education is thus of great importance. And Umoja’s school is a particular point of pride for its women. Not only because they helped build it but also because it provides education to those in neighbouring villages too.
To sustain village life, women make their own crafts – colourful beaded necklaces and bracelets – that are sold to visiting tourists. And village leaders also now run a nearby campsite. The money earned is shared equally and anything left over is saved for emergencies, such as healthcare.
This model of village life has won praise with women across Samburu County. And, naturally, has spawned similar efforts.
Nachami, meaning love, is described as an experimental group. A stone’s throw from Umoja, it allows men and women to co-exist, albeit still as a matriarchy. Whilst Supalake, further still, is a village where women create the rules and men complete the physical labour.
Not everyone is a fan though. And local Samburu men still enjoy voicing their protestations – often evincing the belief that women cannot survive without the protection of men.
But it must be tough being a hater – especially when US Presidents are touching down in your country arguing in favour of women’s rights. Back in 2015, Barack Obama gave a powerful speech that riffed on many of the things Umoja has achieved. And Lolosoli can even count Hillary Clinton as a fan – having met her on several occasions.
Life in this sparse, arid landscape might look simple, frugal – perhaps boring to some. But it is peaceful. And given that Kenyan women in Samburu County have a 95% chance of being beaten by their husbands, Umoja is definitely a place to call home.
Sources
https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2015/aug/16/village-where-men-are-banned-womens-rights-kenya
