One Sudanese proverb claims that bakhur (Arabic: ‘scent’ or ‘incense’) is the food of the soul – and natural scents are deeply ingrained in this East African nation’s culture. So much so that their uses are manifold: perfumes feature prominently at weddings and other celebrations, and offer a wealth of hygiene, medicinal and cosmetic benefits besides. It is therefore hardly surprising that Sudan produced one of the world’s top-selling perfumes: Bint el Sudan. But this article is no laudatory exploration of its history. Rather, it delves into how a 1920s fragrance came out in support of the Sudanese woman’s power struggle.
The significance of Sudanese scents
Historically, Sudan has been the home of khumra (‘homemade fragrances’). And Sudanese women have long used essential oils to make both themselves more beautiful and alluring, and their homes more welcoming through the aromatic enhancement that incense affords. These fragrances are now viewed as an expression of ‘femininity, power and allure’. One perfume in particular, Bint el Sudan, has evolved in a way that mirrors their struggle to break free of the shackles of a hitherto repressive regime and celebrate their strength.
One Alaa Salah has become the emblem of the Sudanese woman’s powerful beauty. In April 2019 a viral image of the 22-year-old revolutionary drew international attention to how she and her fellow countrywomen are being forcibly sidelined. The photograph, taken by Lana Haroun, shows the young protestor standing atop a car wearing a white thoub and gold earring that would earn her the nickname ‘Lady Liberty’. She rallied the largely female protestors surrounding her, and was instrumental in sparking the revolution that toppled President Omar al-Bashir, ruler of her homeland for three decades.
Her courageous stand led to a pro-democracy movement that was majority female (60–70%) and was duly immortalized on the Bint el Sudan perfume bottle. But despite Salah’s efforts, she says many protestors ‘were teargassed, threatened, assaulted and thrown in jail without any charge or due process’. But Sudanese women are not ones to surrender: they are determined to fight until they achieve 50% representation in their country’s new government.
Perfume power in the African diaspora
Salah’s powerful message resonated so much with global audiences that she is now known as ‘The Nubian Queen’. Her actions even spawned an international movement, notably with the domino protests in the US. Sudanese women living in diaspora worldwide took to the streets in similar fashion to stand together with their sisters back home. So when it comes to defending their rights, women clearly have a tendency to band together.
And sometimes, it is our own country’s traditional rituals that link us in ways we would least expect. Such is the case with Sudanese perfume, which created a shared yet surprisingly powerful cultural heritage for one Sudanese woman and her Indian counterpart. Connected by sandalwood, an odour commonly used in Sudanese scents and which is now cultivated much more in India. Research has shown that olfactory memories are the most powerful of all our memories, and that perfume marketing ‘capitalizes on this relationship and our desire to be desired’.
Sudan’s scent culture was born of the country’s location, at the crossroads between the Indian subcontinent (the origin of sandalwood), the Arabian Peninsula and the Red Sea. This put Sudan firmly on the trade map, making it an entry point for all manner of commodities, including those of the perfume variety.
For women in the diaspora, therefore, scents and their associations are often based on a romanticized notion of home. Thus, a scent can ultimately remind more than one woman of the home she left behind, providing a springboard for female bonding. The smells of home form part of our aromatic identity. And I for one think that is a beautiful thing.
The African models of Bint el Sudan
Recently, the global market for Sudan’s scents has become more established with both Sudanese women living in Europe and in the Arab world – and those living in Western nations – taking a greater interest in them. Dubbed ‘Africa’s Chanel No.5’, the perfume’s composition has changed little since it was first launched by WJ Bush in London. The scent combines jasmine, lily and lilac, and was originally sold on public markets and worn by swathes of women in Sudan and other East African countries. A staggering 11 million bottles were being produced in Nigeria alone less than two decades ago.
Today, women across Africa still clamour for Bint el Sudan. And it certainly caters to ladies from all cultural backgrounds, thanks to its adaptation to suit various markets. This is evident from the model portrayed on the bottle’s label. For example, the signature topless African woman was given a red scarf to appeal to more modest markets, and a burqa when it went on sale in Saudi Arabia. With an annual average of 5.7 million bottles now rolling off the production line in Nigeria for the African market, the original factory in Kano meets 80% of global demand. African Aromatics carries a good selection of Fair Trade fragrances for those who wish to find out more.
Sudanese scent culture showcases beauty as well as power – for women in both Africa and the diaspora. It is a means by which they become beautiful, alluring and desirable, as well as a powerful vehicle that supports their beliefs as they fight for equality.
But whether or not women ultimately achieve true equality in our largely male-dominated world remains to be seen. What do you think the future holds for the strong Sudanese woman? And does her unrelenting pursuit of justice make her all the more attractive?
Sources:
https://time.com/5712952/alaa-salah-sudan-women-protest/
https://khartoumstar.com/en/2019/09/30/the-unique-traditional-sudanese-fragrances/
https://www.pri.org/stories/2019-04-10/heres-story-behind-iconic-image-sudanese-woman-white
https://this.org/2020/04/28/perfuming-my-daughter/
https://alisonbate.ca/2010/01/09/memories-of-bint-el-sudan/
http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2011/12/bint_el_sudan_the_african_chan.html
